Checklist for the day: Change course Stay up all night for shamanic ceremony Don’t spill the airak The morning after our return to Hogrog following our visit to the Tsaatan, Shuree and Mishig, who had taken a motorcycle to scout the rivers, told us that the route we had planned to take to the confluence of the Shisged and Tengis
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Checklist for the day: Ride above timberline to Siberian border Swat biting bog flies Do not catch anyone’s tepee on fire Do not make the weather spirits any madder Dawn broke over fog, shrouding the buildings, livestock, and landscape in a silvery shimmer. We struck our tents and stowed them in a log outbuilding, along with nearly all our
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